Just Centering

Lalita Iyer Musings

There are days when you want to be quiet. It was just happenstance that I watched a reel the previous night, got the contacts next morning and there I was visiting a temple I had not heard of before, leave alone seen. Anjana Reddy runs the Swastashree Yoga Academy and is also on the board of this temple and she readily agreed to accompany me.

The approach to the Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple in Puppalaguda takes you along a tree-lined avenue before turning into a narrow lane, where huge, rusted gates bearing the letters HMDA in white suddenly come into view. The temple and its grounds are protected by this government authority. A small security cabin, just big enough to accommodate one person, stands guard over the six acres of land sanctioned for the temple.

The temple board cordoned the six acres of land as people tried to stake claim. If you want to see some of the best rock formations, then this is the best place to go to in recent times. For what I have seen earlier have been blown to smithereens to bring forth tall monstrosities. The rocks are ancient and who can really tell their ancientness?

Many of them resemble some of the Dashavatars, including the first, Matsya Avatar, and the ever-important Kurma Avatar, or the turtle incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The latter served as the firm foundation during the churning of the ocean for amrit, the nectar of immortality.

There is also a Varaha Avatar, which I missed at the entrance. Bhashyam Panthulu then explains the episode of Gajendra Moksham, pointing to a rock resembling an alligator, while the shape of an elephant can be seen just behind the temple.

Construction work is on, for they are building a new Anantha Padmanabhaswamy temple, so more people can view the icon. Currently only two can stand and worship at this 800 and more years temple. If you go during the evening, then Bhashyam Pantulu is a true vedic pandit and does not allow any artificial lights into the sanctum sanctorum.

There is no reason to mind the absence of artificial lights when the priest performs the aarathi, illuminating the sanctum with rows of deepams. It is a breathtaking sight. Lord Vishnu reclines in Sayanam as Sri Anantha Padmanabha Swamy, with his consorts, Sridevi and Bhudevi, at his feet. Chaturmukha Brahma emerges from his navel on a lotus, while Aadi Shesha shelters him. The Lord's hand is raised in Abhaya Mudra, assuring devotees that they can seek his blessings. The Shankam and Chakra are placed beside him, while the top of the granite block features the Dashavatars. According to Bhashyam Panthulu, this is the only Anantha Padmanabha Swamy temple with this feature.

Since we visited on a Friday, we were fortunate to have the nija swaroopa darshan. On other days, the Lord is covered with a brass kavacham.

Historically, a temple stood at ground level but was ravaged by enemy forces. The idol was hurriedly concealed in a small cave, barely large enough for the priest to move around and two devotees to stand and worship. A slightly larger Vitthala-Rukmini temple stands beside the cave. Both shrines are sheltered by a gigantic rock overhead. The adventurous can also explore a nearby cave shaped like a chakra.

When the weather is pleasant and construction work is absent, this is a wonderful place to unwind, with time seemingly resting on the rocks as the lights of the surrounding high-rises create a magical setting.

(Lalita Iyer is a senior journalist)