IYER MUSINGS Steamy Soothers

There are certain memories stuck in the subconscious. Then there are those, like the one I am going to relate, that remain top of the mind and return often. VJM Divakar, a colleague, and I were travelling to the forests of Chhattisgarh years ago. We travelled by train to Bhadrachalam Road and then took an auto towards Bhadrachalam around 5 am. Halfway through, we saw a huge crowd near a hand cart. Thinking it was an accident, we stopped, only to discover an idli cart serving breakfast to factory workers and students.

As expected, I ordered two plates. Divakar’s only refrain was, “But I have not yet brushed my teeth.” The vendor, perhaps surprised to hear a woman ordering in an unfamiliar accent at that hour, stopped serving others and handed us two overflowing plates of the hottest idlis. It remains one of the most memorable and satisfying breakfasts I have ever had.

These hand carts are special. You either stumble upon them and remember them forever or spend years searching for the right one. The secret is simple — look for the steam curling into the air and the crowd gathered around. That always means quick turnover and delicious food. Timing matters too. A good late-night hand cart almost guarantees good sleep.

The steaming idlis are lifted from stacked trays while the vendor blows on his fingers. Soft, pillowy and dangerously hot, they are served on paper plates with green chutney sometimes speckled with bits of chilli. Breaking into those hot idlis while balancing the plate and protecting your clothes from dripping chutney is part of the experience. Some carts also serve spicy garlic podi that wakes up the taste buds instantly.

My favourite places for hot idlis remain near Madhapur Metro station and the Yousufguda basti in Hyderabad, where omelettes, jonna rottes, dosas and other steaming dishes are equally irresistible. Meanwhile, the summer heat does not seem to bother the birds. A turtle dove on my balcony is teaching her two little ones to fly, though before they finally manage it, they unfailingly tumble into the bedroom at least twice every day.

- Lalita Iyer

Sr. Journalist & Blogger