A quiet amidst the din

Lalita Iyer Musings

I visited the Sri Ranganatha Swamy (Kanchi) at Nallagandla. A gentle revelation from the word go. There were only a couple of pairs of footwear and the huge rocks with kaavi (ochre) lines on them were an invitation. Climbed 18 gradient steps and then walked between ancientness to arrive under tree shade and literally three people, sitting calmly, enjoying the peace and quiet. It was 11 am on a Wednesday.

The main deity, Sri Ranganadha, he who is in shayanam is inside a blue door under a huge rock and hence this is literally a small cave, with Ranganadha lying down and the kamalam rising out of his nabhi. Along with the priest, a couple of people is all that this small space can hold. Wonder what it is like during festivals.

While the true age of this temple cannot be confirmed, Ajay Krishnan, the priest on that day says it could be close to 1200 years old. Though he adds that his forefathers say it could be 850 years old. A swayambhu granite icon, what was earlier known as Sri Ranganayakka Swamy is now known as Sri Ranganadha Swamy. He is also known as Adi Sheshu. And he has his famous  Shanka and Chakra. On his left side is Goda Devi, Bhudevi, Nila Devi, while Mahalakshmi is sitting at his feet.

Above all this, almost as toranallu, stand the ten avataras of Lord Vishnu, the Dashavataar. All this in granite with highlights with lime stone and Kaavi, making it look very artistic. Ajay Krishnan has two brothers, also being priests Naveen Kumar and Sai Ranganathan. "As far as I remember, we have always been archakas," says Ajay, who has done his graduation but prefers to be at the temple and giving Swamyvaru darshanalu to the devotees.

The small village of Nallagandla was known as Jaga Kanche with darbha grass growing at 6 feet height amidst rocks. Playfully people would hit these rocks with a small stone and there would be a gong-like sound and hence the name Nallagandla was given to this place. And so the lord, found near Patancheruvu, was finally brought to Nallagandla on Ugadi day. And placed inside this cave. A few men of the village also had dreams asking them to start a temple here.

It was a small village, with a few people and soon the dream came true as many here believed that "Rangadu ochedu." The swamy was called by various names, Rangaiah, Raghavia, Raghaiah...but he had arrived and a small temple amidst the rocks came to stay. And if Lord Vishnu be there, Aanjaneya can't be far away and so facing the earlier entrance was a six feet tall Aanjaneya.

The temple has been raised and mordernised as in to also keep the place clean, with huge stone slabs and with the trees being bordered. There is a huge much worshipped peepul tree. And so Aanjaneya is only less than half his height, and obviously has been built over, along with a snake pit. In a conversation I overheard, there are some steps leading below, where the snake pit can be seen.

They also have a statue of the Time Keeper Kaala Bhairava and a small Shiva Lingam which people worship fervently. While Ajay says Shiva and Vishnu are never separate, a place like this could be called a Harihara Kshetra. The temple was mordernised to this level between 2002/2005, which includes the entire floor tiling of the main sanctum sanctorum. It gives the place a dark cave like feel but without the bandas beneath your feet it feels strange.

The uniqueness of this temple, if the ancientness alone does not work, is that the abhishekam water does not flow away and the temple people have no clue as to where the water goes. There is abhshekam every Wednesday. Earlier parrots would come in droves, though now the sound of traffic might have scared all the birds away. A lone monkey does come and does not disturb anyone at all. This temple is looked after by the village committee and comes under the Endowments Department. Pujas are being performed from the year 2000 and Ajay proudly says "we make the kumkuma at home.”

– Lalita Iyer 

  Senior Journalist